I caught the train from Delhi’s Hazrat Nizamuddin station for the 3 hour journey south east to the city of Agra in the state of Uttar Pradesh where the famous Taj Mahal and Agra Fort is based. Agra is similar to other cities in India I have been to in terms of the crazy drivers, noise, dust and incessant beeping of horns but again has a few beautiful gems to discover in terms of the typical tourist attractions. This was my first train journey and what an experience! There are several classes from first, second, sleeper, standard and standing classes. I opted for a second class eat which basically got me a sleeper style bed that turned into a seat although in a cabin with others. The lower classes really were as I’ve seen them on TV etc, rammed full of people hanging off the sides and running along the tracks to jump on! It was sad to see the huge amount of poverty and slums along the sides of the tracks where people live, wash and children play dodging the trains that hurtle past.
On arrival into Agra, I grabbed a tuk tuk and went off to the hotel which was near the Taj. First stop was the mighty Agra Fort which costs 500 rupees to enter as a tourist. This place was so much better than the Red Fort in Delhi, much more impressive and well maintained with the added bonus that it has amazing views of the Taj Mahal in the distance. When I first saw it through one of the arches it was a real WOW moment for me. It was so impressive to see from afar and a lot bigger than I had imagined. The fort itself is a historical fort built as the main residence of the emperors of the Mughal Dynasty until 1638 when the Mughal Capital was moved from Agra to Delhi and the Red Fort. The whole complex is quite grand with temples, intricate detail, arches, courtyards and ornate buildings. It’s a definite must do and a quite place of calm when you consider just outside it’s borders theres the chaos of the traffic!
Next stop was the ‘Baby Taj’ or the Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah which is Mughal mausoleum or often referred to as a draft of the more famous Taj Mahal. It’s not too dissimilar in design and has some similar features. I then was told about a better vantage point for the Taj Mahal itself for the sunset which is on the opposite side of the Yamuna River in the flood plains at Mehtab Bagh. As you walk through the gardens this is another WOW as you get a great view up close but with a fraction of the people! The building is symmetrical so the view from the rear is pretty much the same as what you get to see in the complex itself.
The next day I was up early to get to the Taj Mahal for sunrise and to beat the queues for 1000 rupees a ticket for foreigners. The ticket offices open at sunrise but by the time I got there at this time, so had thousands of others, I couldn’t believe it! It gets even more manic from 9am onwards but the crowds were already there queuing through the strict security gates and procedures, a separate queue for men and women. So, by this time, we had missed some of the sunrise but in any case, the Taj Mahal faces south as you look at it so the sun either rises or sets on either side. The walk up the gardens to the dome itself is really awesome and can’t be put into words. There was scaffolding on one minaret when I was there in March 2017 with further work being planned for April 2017 across the whole building so lucky I got in quick! As expected there was a queue to sit and pose on the famous benches made famous by Princess Diana, so I had to do that too although I had more people in my shot! We were able to walk inside the building too. It’s a lot cooler but not as impressive as what i was expecting. It was more plain and simple.
Overall, Agra itself is another city similar to others in India but it really does deliver on some amazing historical places and views. Next stop, 4 hour train journey to the city of Jaipur in the state of Rajasthan.
